We navigated the Naples airport with ease, which had a complete lax of any security, passport control etc and worked out how to catch the shuttle bus into Naples central train station, close by to our accommodation. We had opted for an apartment in Naples and glad we have. It's a really lovely place, with working airconditioning, great fans and a washing machine! Small luxuries when travelling - free clothes washing facilities! It's a quiet, relaxing haven in stark contrast to the street below. We were last in Naples about three years ago. We came because Shannon really wanted to visit, I was more cautious and I think because of that, didn't appreciate it for what it is. When planning this trip Shannon mentioned coming here again and while dubious, I decided I needed to give it another shot. I needed to look past the piles of rubbish on the street, graffiti, grit and see Naples through different eyes. Today we did just that. After unpacking our bags, we wandered into the historical centre to meet out guide Rafaele - a local and academic who would show us Naples from a locals perspective. Rafaele turned out to be one of the best tour guides we have ever come across.
Not only did he share his passion for this city, but he also shared some of his most favourite places and real hidden gems. He took us to a most sacred underground church where poor people and aristocrats are buried in unison. People go there to pray to the souls for miracles and leave small tokens of themselves to show their miracle had come true. I was overcome in the tiny chamber, a really emotional experience and a new understanding of the connection people have to their beloved city.
The locals live their lives openly and right out on the street. We passed children playing soccer, making do with a plastic bottle, ladies hauling their groceries up 10-floor buildings by baskets attached to rope, families eating ice-cream and enjoying aperitivo (drink and small snacks like nuts or chips) at the tiny bars. We learnt about the architecture of the city and the blend of eras, the soft stone (tufa) that the buildings are made of, that is the reason the facades are crumbling and that really, Naples is no more dangerous than any other city in the world. The perception of Naples created by media hype, movies etc. is indeed over-exaggerated. Sure you need to be cautious in big places like train stations, just as you would do in Melbourne. Rafaele showed us the artisan quarter, where local artists still create figurines of nativity scenes today.
We enjoyed an espresso, a Naples espresso, which without a word of a lie, is quite possibly the best coffee I've had in my life. Big call I know, but the taste was amazing and I wouldn't do it justice by trying to describe it. We bid a fond farewell to Rafaele (Shannon even gave him a tip, a very rare occurrence) and went to a local pizzeria he recommended for some dinner. A massive day of dodging traffic, watching for holes in cobblestones, being amazed by the raw life in the tiny streets, but our hearts are full and we're just so damn lucky to be here. Thanks Shannon, for convincing me I needed to give Naples a second chance, it's wriggling itself into my heart. I can't wait to explore more of the city in the next couple of days.
No comments:
Post a Comment