Special price for nice people.

 

This was a sign I saw at a leather shop this morning. It caught my eye for several reasons. How many unpleasant people must have been customers for this proprietor to offer a discount for nice people. Is the world so mean that he has had that many undesirable customers?

I did start thinking as we walked to our destination, have I been a nice customer? Should I receive a special price? 

We arrived at our destination and ordered two cappuccini (the plural for more than one) and a couple of croissants and enjoyed while awaiting our Italian family. Before long, we were greeted by Buon Giorno from Stefano, Rosalinda and a hello from Virginia.

Today was our final day with them for a long while, most likely years. 

It was to be a day for walking, chatting, lunch and a sad farewell.  We visited an antique market and also the food market, where we were all able to enjoy and take photos.

From here, it was walking passed the Duomo and to lunch, Virginia's selection. 

1950 American Diner - FIRENZE

Yes, we entered this American diner in the area close to the train station, We hadn't been to America, but as soon as we stepped through the doors, we were no longer in Italy. Neon signs, street signs, booth seating, and 1950 American music. 

Lunch was all American, with burgers, tacos, fries and milkshakes on the menu. However, there was an Italian twist, Hazelnut milkshakes and truffle cream on a burger!

The food was pretty good, considering we were in Florence, and it was delivered by waiters on rollerskates. 

From here, we watched an experienced Rosalinda and Stefano bargain and haggle with the men selling leather items on Via dell'Ariento. It was great to see how one item advertised for 135 euro was haggled down to 55 euro.

We continued along the main street that led us toward Ponte Vehicco but not without each of us stopping to see items of interest, Virginia, sweet shop / Rosalinda, clothing / Katie, Jewellery / Shannon Food Shop. 

We could see the PonteVeccio drawing close and could feel the goodbyes coming. We walked to the centre and took in the view with our close Italian friends, knowing we may not see them again for years. But we are committed to video calls and helping Virginia with English lessons where we can. 

Arrivederci amici

Come dine with me

This morning we bid a fond farewell to Stefano, Rosalinda and Virginia as we departed La Maesta for Florence. Our farewell will only be short, as the family will visit us for lunch while we are in Florence for five days. The transiting days between cities/towns are frustrating. Generally, there's something that doesn't go quite to plan, or you get stuck in a queue or delayed etc. Today, our train from Arezzo to Florence was full. Instead of cramming into a packed carriage, we opted to stay out in the portico area with our suitcases. There was a little seat pulled out from the wall that I sat on the entire 55-minute trip, and Shannon stood most of the way. Shannon navigated us to our apartment, which is lovely, and then headed out for a stroll around the city. 

Florence is busy. This will be a combination of New Year's Eve weekend and people's ability to get back out and travel again, even in Winter. Florence is as beautiful as I remembered it. Like towns in Tuscany, Christmas decorations and lights adorn streets and doorways. 

 

Being a larger city, we were suddenly surrounded by a mix of languages. After a week of being surrounded by Italian, it seemed strange to hear conversations around us in English. We enjoyed a toasted panini for lunch and stopped in at our favourite little Irish pub in the main piazza for a drink.

Back to the apartment to do some laundry (our apartment has a washer and dryer) and to relax for the afternoon, as tonight, we had a special dinner to look forward to.

In early November, we booked dinner for tonight at Ora D'aria, a Michelin-star restaurant in the heart of the city. This meal was possible due to the generosity and kindness of my Geelong High colleagues and friends who gifted me dinner at a Michelin-star restaurant for my 40th birthday. We booked well in advance after finding this particular place to be sure to get a table during the holiday period. I know my description of this meal can't do it justice, but I will try. Ora d'aria has three set menus to choose from - past, present and future. Past is a traditional Tuscan menu and contains meat, the present menu was a vegetarian option, and the future was a seafood menu. Shannon and I both chose the past, paired with wine.

While I had read a little about the restaurant and chef, nothing could have prepared me for what we found inside. We were greeted by a lovely waitress who took my coat and led us inside. The dining room was small but elegant. The tables were draped in white linen to match the glossy white chairs that swivelled. The ceiling was painted gold and blue. On one side of the room was the kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors stood directly behind our table so we could view that master at work! The door was automatic, so we could smell all the delicious things each time it opened! We started our meal with an aperitivo which included snacks - olives and tasty treats. 

Much to our surprise, the head chef, Marco Stabile, greeted us at our table, poured a tasty broth into delicate teacups, and welcomed us to his restaurant. Marco then presented each dish to our table with the wait staff, which was a lovely and rare touch. It is clear that Marco is proud of his food and his restaurant. As he should be - the food was incredible.

We started with an artichoke puree with olive oil and truffle, closely followed by a little dish of poached egg, which sat on a bed of spinach, also paired with black truffle. Next, we had tiny tortellini filled with rabbit, a delicacy I had never experienced before.

The past dish that followed was my favourite of the night - chestnut pappardelle. Are you hungry yet? The fourth course was a beef speciality that had been smoked and boiled, and the meat fell apart. It was served with some roasted vegetables and the smoothest mashed potato I had ever seen. 

This incredible meal was topped off with a delightful baked cheesecake with a sauce that could make angels weep! I cheekily asked the waitress for a jug of it, and she laughed, adding that she pinches some every chance she can get. 

 

I must say this was one of those evenings that I will never, ever forget. I know that some people won't share the same passion for food and the joy that it brings and that's fine. But when we skipped out of that restaurant and strolled through the streets of Florence in the rain, there was magic in the air.

  

Sansepolcro and herbs

It is hard to believe this is the fifth visit to our Italian family at LaMaesta, and each time we explore some of our favourites and also visit suggestions of new places. Today was Sansepolcro (Pronounced: Sans-sey-pol-cro), a town about 60 minutes drive away on the eastern edge of Tuscany.

On arrival the first stop was the tourist information centre, first to get information about the town and what we should see and also to use the toilet facilities. Public toilets like we have in Australia are few and far between, you usually need to search and use facilities at a bar, restaurant or, in this case, the TI. 

From there, we were provided with info and maps of the place and we went to our first attraction Museo Della vetrata where in the old church we were presented with a collection of stained and painted glass that has been collected and restored. 

It was interesting to learn about the techniques and how they have evolved. 

The last supper

I would like to add Italy is not all about history. Many are moving forward with alternative lifestyles, and it is good to see people 'breaking' the mould and showing individuality. This car was parked close to the previous museum in the historic centre. 

It was getting close to lunch, so we headed back into the centre, walked the length of Via XX Settembre, and looked through the various shops, most still presenting Christmas decorations and Christmas items for sale. Lunch was then at a small little bar where we had Polpette (meatballs), Katies in a Pomodoro (Tomato) sauce and mine in Balsamic and Honey sauce. They were amazing, so good we forgot to get a photo! We also had some small bread, about 10 mm thick and 100 mm round, like little sandwiches. Mine had mortadella mousse with pistachio and Katie's contained prosciutto with a buratta cheese. Again, amazing. 

This town has many churches, and there is never a reason not to enter.  It is a place to sit down, relax and view the art adorning the walls in a location that the artist intended. Something else that is a treat at this time of year is all churches have Presepio (Nativity Scene).  Here is a video of the largest we have seen, with night and day scenes. The video is dark at the start but will quickly transition to the daylight scene. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cyqGivhXiGTnSF1y8

Finally, we attended the Aboca Museum, dedicated to herbs and traditional medicine. It was a very informative place, explaining how we have used natural products for centuries and now how we still use them in current-day treatments. Well worth a visit.

The aroma of the dried herbs was amazing in this room

The ground floor had an interactive exhibition.

All roads lead to Rome.

Today saw the end of our week in beautiful Tuscany and the start of our week in Rome - my favourite city. Last night we had a drink with our fellow La Maesta guests to say goodbye and this morning were farewelled by Rosalinda, Stefano, Lilla and Virginia. A beautiful family who have become special friends. Stefano drove us to the train station and we were on our way.

Shannon and Alan

Shannon and Billy the cat

Me with the lovely Lilla

We've become quite familiar with travelling on trains and the quirks that are involved. Purchasing tickets...validating tickets...finding the right platform...train...coach...seat. We had purchased first class tickets for today's trip - it was a 2 and a half hour journey and usually first class provides more comfortable seats and air conditioning. We were annoyed to find there was no first class coach!

The trip was entertaining however. We had a couple sitting across the aisle from us. The gentleman had on a rather large pair of headphones and was clearly enjoying his music, because he decided the rest of us on the coach needed to hear it too. He was singing along so passionately we couldn't help but laugh. We couldn't sing along with him because he wasn't singing in English or Italian, but Chinese! Every now and then he'd pass a headphone to his wife who would then start to clap and dance along to the music. It was pretty funny and made a boring train trip go a little bit quicker.

We arrived in Roma Termini station - a shock to the system after a quiet week away from the crowds. We were swept up in the bustle of people coming and going, like ants on a mission to find the nest. We blew out of the station and began the journey to find our accommodation. Like most city's in Europe, Rome's Metro is user friendly, so we were able to buy tickets and get on the underground train quite easily. We had decided this time in Rome to book an apartment, to get a feel for what it's like to live in the hustle and bustle of the big city. We are literally around the corner from the Trevi Fountain (which is covered in scaffolding at the moment while under restoration) and are surrounded by restaurants and souvenir shops selling everything under the sun. The apartment is so quirky. It's a tiny little place on the fourth floor of an old building. The lift is that small that only two people can fit in it at a time. Or, as we discovered, one person and two suitcases! Photos to come of the strange angles on the roof and poky little bathroom! We had a relaxing afternoon reading and a little planning. We ventured out to the local supermarket to get breakfast supplies and some snacks and decided to do some washing.

First walk through Rome this afternoon.

Even though the apartment owner provided a step by step guide in a booklet with pictures on how to use the washer/dryer, we're still not sure how our clothes are going to come out in the end. They have literally been in the machine now for 4 hours...yes you read correctly! First we got it going but then the water wasn't flowing. Then the wash cycle took forever...we thought we had it on the dry cycle...but...well it's still cranking away. At this rate it might be done before we go to bed...watch this space!

We decided we needed a break from restaurants and were both craving a burger...so Burger King it was! We then enjoyed a gelati and a beautiful sunset.

Tomorrow - The Colosseum - third time's a charm.