David, Ancient Egyptians and Za Za!

 It has taken nearly two weeks, but my body clock has switched off, and I am enjoying a sleep-in! This morning, however, we were up early as we had pre-booked tickets to see David at Accademia museum. Yes, we have seen David before. In fact, three times, but when in Florence....well, he's incredible and literally takes your breath away every time you see him. 

 

We took our time strolling through the museum though, as there are other interesting things to see here, like a collection of ancient musical instruments and half-finished sculptures by Michaelangelo.

 

After we spent time in David's company, we left, promising to visit again someday and stopped for a snack before heading to the National Museum of Florence. This place has mixed reviews online, and I can now understand why. The Italian collection of Etruscan items were interesting at times but got a bit boring after a while. But, their collection of Ancient Egyptian artefacts is amazing. In my opinion, even better than the British Museum. Ancient Egypt is one of my favourite periods of history to teach, so I was in my element among the mummies and coffins! 

 

We found a small restaurant not far from the museum that served typical Tuscan dishes, so we stopped there for some pasta. This was probably the first meal in Florence this week that we wouldn't rave about. After 10 years, we decided it was time for Shannon's suitcase to retire, so we purchased him a new one this afternoon and then went about the chore of packing, as tomorrow, we leave for Lucca. For dinner, we decided to head to Za Za Tratoria, a much-anticipated restaurant that we had heard about from some Australians we met in an Irish pub. Must be good right? I had also read about it online. While most Italian restaurants open at 7:30, this place is open from 11am until 11pm. We didn't make a reservation, so we thought we'd try our luck by showing up earlyish for dinner. We arrived to be placed in a queue, but it was moving quickly. We waited only around 10 minutes. It reminded me of my clubbing days, waiting to get into Lamby's, haha. The restaurant is huge; it takes up half a block and has outdoor dining. We were concerned a place that big couldn't deliver quality. But we were very pleasantly surprised. The food was incredible. It was so good, we forgot to take a single photo, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Tonight is our final night in this beautiful city. Some final snaps and an early night before our early train to Lucca in the morning. Farewell Florence, until next time.

Special price for nice people.

 

This was a sign I saw at a leather shop this morning. It caught my eye for several reasons. How many unpleasant people must have been customers for this proprietor to offer a discount for nice people. Is the world so mean that he has had that many undesirable customers?

I did start thinking as we walked to our destination, have I been a nice customer? Should I receive a special price? 

We arrived at our destination and ordered two cappuccini (the plural for more than one) and a couple of croissants and enjoyed while awaiting our Italian family. Before long, we were greeted by Buon Giorno from Stefano, Rosalinda and a hello from Virginia.

Today was our final day with them for a long while, most likely years. 

It was to be a day for walking, chatting, lunch and a sad farewell.  We visited an antique market and also the food market, where we were all able to enjoy and take photos.

From here, it was walking passed the Duomo and to lunch, Virginia's selection. 

1950 American Diner - FIRENZE

Yes, we entered this American diner in the area close to the train station, We hadn't been to America, but as soon as we stepped through the doors, we were no longer in Italy. Neon signs, street signs, booth seating, and 1950 American music. 

Lunch was all American, with burgers, tacos, fries and milkshakes on the menu. However, there was an Italian twist, Hazelnut milkshakes and truffle cream on a burger!

The food was pretty good, considering we were in Florence, and it was delivered by waiters on rollerskates. 

From here, we watched an experienced Rosalinda and Stefano bargain and haggle with the men selling leather items on Via dell'Ariento. It was great to see how one item advertised for 135 euro was haggled down to 55 euro.

We continued along the main street that led us toward Ponte Vehicco but not without each of us stopping to see items of interest, Virginia, sweet shop / Rosalinda, clothing / Katie, Jewellery / Shannon Food Shop. 

We could see the PonteVeccio drawing close and could feel the goodbyes coming. We walked to the centre and took in the view with our close Italian friends, knowing we may not see them again for years. But we are committed to video calls and helping Virginia with English lessons where we can. 

Arrivederci amici

Come stroll with me

After a late night enjoying the city's new year's eve festivities, we had a slow morning and left our apartment around 11 to find a beautiful blue sky - surely a good omen for the new year! 

Being New Year's day, most things were closed this morning, including the all-important coffee bars. We ventured across the Ponte Vecchio in search of a good coffee to start the day. I spotted people sitting at tables in a sunny spot, so we headed there. Ordering the coffee was easy enough, though when we took our coffee outside, the group of old men hanging around started speaking to us in Italian. We eventually worked out they were trying to tell us they were closing, but we could sit over there and climb over the wall when we were done. The coffee was terrible. But we made the most of the sunny spot while planning the rest of our day.

This side of the bridge was far more residential, and after the crowds of the last couple of days, it was a welcome change to walk far quieter streets.

We eventually came across a lovely little square where there were a few cafes and restaurants open. We had worked up an appetite, so we chose a little pasta bar for lunch. We shared a Margherita pizza and then had a pasta dish each. It was all delicious.

  

Our stroll continued past the Pitti Palace and back across the Ponte Vecchio. No window shopping for me today, as all the jewellery shops that line the bridge was closed. The post new years eve crowds were still filling the streets, so we were glad to escape to a cathedral that was hosting an art exhibition - 'Inside Banksy: Unauthorized Exhibition'. I had prior knowledge of Banksy, but not much. He is a British street artist famous for his political works. Inside the exhibition, digital images of his works were projected onto the cathedral's walls. It was interesting but not particularly value for money. Perhaps if you had a greater knowledge of the artist, you might have more appreciation for it. A nice way to spend a little time, however.

    

Our strolling continued, leading us to the beautiful Piazza Santa Croce. We took some time to 'people watch' until it got too chilly, and we found comfort in another Irish pub.

 

Time for a rest back at our accommodation, and then we headed back out in search of dinner. We always find the best restaurants when we wander off the main streets. It was early for Italian dinner standards (around 7pm), but many places were open. We find a lovely place back over the bridge directly across from the Pitti Palace. Another delicious meal was had, and I had most definitely left room for gelati! Another fabulous Italian day.

 

One reason for travelling to foreign countries - Food

 Food, food and food. 

Our way of learning, embracing and understanding a city is to book a food tour. For around 100 euros a person we get a private guide who is local to the town, the chance to sample local foods (enough to make up at least a meal each), drink and sample wine whiles also getting insights into the history and also what it like living as a local. 

Today we booked Mateo via the site With Locals and met him for our three-hour tour on the city's eastern side. 

The first stop was the Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio, where mouth-watering morcels are sold. We were introduced to items we had before and some new ones, like Lasagna, Eggplant Parmesan (a lasagna made with eggplant and no pasta sheets). After a selection of cold cuts, prosciutto, tuscan salami, and fennel salami. Next was porchetta, a braised beef braised in pepper and red wine with a side of Ribolitta (Tuscan soup with beans, cabbage, carrots, onion, potatoes and stale bread). All absolutely delicious. 

Yes, we were getting full by this stage, but Mateo was also a master of the market, introducing us to all the stallholders and a boxing champion who is also a butcher!

We asked about coffee and how to find good coffee, and it was pretty simple, the bad coffee shops are the ones you won't go back to as you will feel bad until your next coffee.

Next was some pastries and also a coffee.  

Mateo then presented us to an area where Dante lived, where we had what we agreed to describe as savoury doughnuts. These were the size of a golf ball cut in half and stuffed with a slice of prosciutto and some cheese. Next to this place, we could have a sample of lamprodotto, "meat" that is boiled, thinly sliced, salted, and a green salsa drizzled over. Very delicious, considering the meat is from the cow's fourth stomach. 

Thankfully we had a walk to the northern side of the city, past the duomo, where we saw some hari-chrishnas dancing and having a great time. 

Mateo introduced us to Casa di Vino and a couple of small glasses, sparkling white and red. This little wine bar was in the market area where many leather stalls are. We also learnt about the history of this trade and how it is currently run and the products created. Mateo was not ashamed of purchasing a Chinese leather backpack, he says it makes no sense to spend a lot, but he is annoyed if Chinese products are sold as Italian.

Ok, back to the streets, where we headed to another wine bar, where around 30 men in the age range of 50 - 90 were in the street drinking wine by the glass, a common occurrence, we went in and met the owners, behind a small bar, and walls covered in bottles of wine. 

We sampled 2 glasses and were taken next door to a La Capannina Bistrot, just next door, where we had a sample of Carbonara and a slightly spicy tomato pasta.

It was then back to the wine bar Flli Zanobini for two more samples and to purchase local wine and some sparkling for NYE.

Finally, we walked (and boy, we needed a walk by this stage) to My Sugar gelato artigianale; according to Mateo, the gelato would help digestion!

I had Crema and Chicolato and Katie had Norchellia and Pistacciao.

It was a fantastic progressive dinner. We went over by about 45 min but learnt about the culture, the food, the people, and the locals, and that is what travelling should be about.

Buon Appetito