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Friday, September 14, 2018

It is about to get hot

Coober Pedy - the town of mining history, dirt and an indigenous community. The last two days have been relatively mild. Today it decided to increase by 10 degrees to well over 35. It's obvious that it would be a very rough life out here. It's dry, desolate and barely surviving. I noticed the local aboriginals on the first afternoon we arrived. They were at the top of the main street like a welcoming committee to stare at the new arrivals. I can't imagine there are many (if any) opportunities for employment for them out here, but the community seems a relatively good size.



At any time of day, you can see the indigenous walking in small groups up and down the main street, or finding relief from the heat of the day under the trees with their dogs. We met a white man this afternoon at an underground opal cave and art gallery. We chatted to him for quite some time about his life in Coober Pedy. He explained to us that the local indigenous community are quite civilised, now they have introduced tough restrictions on purchasing and consuming alcohol. There is a drug and alcohol day program centre in the middle of town where people can receive support also. He told us the only time they get trouble now is when aboriginal groups visit from Alice Springs. Apparently there have been many nasty fights in the street. He is getting ready to put his business on the market, because he can't fight with the larger opal selling places up the street anymore . It seems he is just one of many who are finding it difficult to stay afloat. I doubt the money I spent on a pair of earrings (yes another pair) lightened his debt, but it was something. Businesses up and down the main street have for sale signs out the front.

I was feeling disgruntled in the Underground Book Shop
We visited Tom's Mine this morning, which was quite an interesting place. Shannon and I took a self guided tour and found delight in spotting seams of opal in the walls, using an ultra violet light to pick them up. We have since discovered he too, is up for sale.
https://www.businessforsale.com.au/australia/AR20277/Top-Tourist-Attraction-Working-Mine-And-Opal-Shop-Zoned-Residential-Commercial-For-Sale






We visited the last church on the list, St Peter and Paul's catholic church, which is also underground. It was a serene, peaceful place that is still in operation, but they only run 2 - 3 services a month now.


As the dining options are limited in town, we couldn't work out what to do for lunch, as we didn't want a full pub meal. We came across a tiny place called the 'Waffles and Gems' cafe. Their menu consists of waffles, pancakes, focaccias or croissants. This was good enough for us. The owners were "quirky". One of them wore a kilt and as we started our lunch so did they....a table of six tucking in to what looked like roast chicken pieces.

Despite the heat and increasing wind, we took off to visit the Breakaways this afternoon. These are large rock formations, created from creeks and rain washing away land over time. Aboriginal culture does not allow the full story of the Breakaways to be told, because it is a teaching place of the young men. However, they believe the 'mounds' represent different animals; emu and its chicks, two dogs and the bearded dragon. We were also able to view to dog fence...some 2,500 kms long to keep the dingoes out!








It was very hot and very windy


Time for a hot shower...I have become the desert.

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